Behind enemy lines at Schalke: When our Dortmund fan went to Gelsenkirchen

I am not much of an away traveller. I never really have been, in truth. The reasons for this used to be financial, later of a professional nature (and admittedly, convenience also played a considerable role).

Even for Borussia Dortmund's biggest match of the year, the Ruhr valley derby against Schalke 04, I usually refused to take the 27-kilometre trip. I didn't want to give the detested club any money, I didn't want to stand in the roofed birdcage they call "Arena" and in particular, I simply didn't even want to set foot in the city of Gelsenkirchen. End of discussion.

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