Racing Santander

Santander, the capital of the region of Cantabria, is a small but picturesque seaside city which is home to Real Racing Club de Santander (though their fans save their breath and call them simply Racing). A suitably provincial outfit, they're enjoying an unusually prolonged stay at Spain's top table: they've only spent one season out of Primera since 1993, although almost every campaign is a struggle against relegation.

Racing fans – most notably the Juventudes Verdiblancas (young green-and-whites), the noisy apolitical ultras who stand (and jump) in the Grada Norte behind the goal – will have secretly enjoyed the return to the top flight of their usual rivals over the border in Asturias: Sporting Gijon came back up in 2008, seven years after Real Oviedo departed.

There is also, however, some rivalry with the Basque teams, especially Athletic Bilbao, who traditionally take more than a thousand fans to Santander – a huge number for Spain, where there is little culture of en masse away trips.

Racing fans still crow about the 5-0 thrashing of Barcelona in 1995, a result immortalised in T-shirts still worn proudly all across the city. The team very nearly repeated the thrashing on the very same date in 2000, falling short by a single goal. Such victories – they've also sent Real Madrid back to the capital pointless – can make the season of struggle seem worthwhile.

THE STADIUM
Built in 1988, El Sardinero has only ever sold out a few times, so tickets are easy to come by from the taquilla at the stadium. Overlooking the beach from which it takes its name, it sits about two miles from the city centre. Energetic fans should allow for an hour's stroll along the city's pretty quays overlooking the bay, across the Magdelena peninsula and along the Atlantic coast; Santander is where Madrilenos head to in the summer in search of sand, stopping only to admire the rolling countryside and imposing mountains overlooking the city.

Club address Real Racing Club, s/n 39005, Santander
Telephone  (0034) 942 230 505
Website www.realracingclub.es

THE CITY: ARRIVAL
Aeropuerto de Santander, 4km out of town. Ferry tickets are sold at Modesto Pineiro, (0034) 942 214 706, www.brittany-ferries.com

CAR RENTAL
Budget, c/San Luis 8, (0034) 942 238 485

DON'T MISS
The Museo Maritimo features an aquarium, not to mention a collection of two-headed sardines.

SOMETHING A LITTLE DIFFERENT
Go for a ride on the FEVE railway: "Stunning views, love, and the coast's not bad either."

FIESTA!
On September 7 and 8, Ampuero hosts the running of the bulls.

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