Villarreal CF

Finding Villarreal on a map of Spain is far from easy; even the most detailed often leave it off. A tiny city of just 38,000 inhabitants, it is little more than a suburb of neighbouring Castellon.

However, the money of president Fernando Roig has turned a two-bit provincial club into one of Spain's top sides, currently enjoying their golden age. They haven't finished outside the top eight since 2003, and have frequently done well in Europe, reaching the semi-finals of the UEFA Cup in 2004 and the Champions League in 2006.

The team play in yellow, and the club makes a lot of their association with the colour. The fans sing Yellow Submarine, which has led to the team's nickname los submarinos amarillos or, in latter years as their performances improved, los submarinos atomicos. Their on-pitch mascot has a yellow submarine head, the roof of the stadium is painted yellow and crowds of yellow-shirted, flag-bearing fans bring to mind a host of golden daffodils. Or something like that.

Traditional rivals Castellon languish in the lower leagues, however, and though games against Valencia are eagerly awaited – especially as it was los Ches who beat them in that 2004 UEFA Cup semi-final – there's little real edge between the sides.

Don't expect much explosion of passion at El Madrigal, let alone fireworks, but don't expect a poor game of football, either.

THE STADIUM
El Madrigal is a compact (25,000-capacity) English-style ground – rectangular, packed tightly between nondescript flats with '70s-style floodlights and stands that get you close to the action. You can usually get a ticket on match day and the ground is walking distance from Villarreal's city centre. That isn't saying much, though. In Villarreal, everything is within walking distance and there are only two hotels. You'll probably be staying in Castellon.

Club address Avd. Blasco Ibanez, Villarreal, Castellon
Telephone (0034) 964 500 167
Website www.villarrealcf.es

THE TOWN: CASTELLON
If you're going to watch Villarreal, much better to stay in Castellon, 10km away and get a taxi to the ground for around 10 euros. A pretty enough resort 100km north of Valencia, Castellon is probably not worth an extended visit, but the beaches are pleasant, especially to the north, and there are a number of interesting galleries. Among the best is the Museo de Bellas Artes, c/Caballeros 25, which houses local works and exhibitions.

GOING OUT
Castellon has a decent nightlife, but things don't really get going until the early hours and you'll need to take a taxi to reach the late-night hotspots.  At 3am head for either Poligono "Los Cipreses" or to c/Cuadra de Borriolenc where you can hang with fresh-faced partygoers.

FIESTA!
On the third Sunday in Lent, the whole town celebrates the Fiesta de la Magdalena which signifies the end of Moorish rule. The main event sees hoards of huge processional floats paraded through the streets.

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