Cairo

Traffic jams are nothing unusual in Cairo, but this was one was special. For one thing, it was about four in the morning; for another, even the usual swerves onto the pavements seemed incapable of breaching the gridlock; most significantly, though, nobody seemed that bothered. There were horns barping, but they weren’t frustrated toots – rather another strand to the mad cacophony of celebration. This was February 2006, and Egypt had just won a fifth African Cup of Nations, making them the most successful side on this vast continent.

The mania that surrounded that tournament was extraordinary – if Egypt were playing. For other games, the crowds were modest, supplemented by army cadets deputed to support one side or the other and dressed in ludicrous multi-coloured jump-suits (looking curiously like a psychedelic version of the spermatozoa in the Woody Allen film Everything You Wanted To Know About Sex But Were Afraid To Ask).

There is some interest in leagues outside Egypt and, post-Mido, taxi drivers are happy to discuss Tottenham, but the focus is definitely domestic. Gradually things are changing, but, because Egyptian league is relatively wealthy, there is no great tradition of players moving abroad. You might find the odd ahwa or bar showing a foreign league match on television, but if that’s what you’re after, your best bet is to head to one of the large western-style hotels. Better, though, to immerse yourself in the local game.

There are other Cairo clubs, most notably ENPPI, but it really all comes down to the big two, Al-Ahly and Zamalek, who between them have won the vast majority of Egyptian league titles on offer since 1948.

Zamalek were established in 1911 as Kasel-el-Nil (‘Place on the Nile’) as a club for ex-pats, with the football section being established two years later (almost all Egyptian teams are part of wider ‘sporting clubs’, many of which offer recreational sports as well as putting out professional teams).

As increasing numbers of Egyptians joined them, they were renamed Al Mukhatalat (‘Mixed’) in 1923. They then enjoyed the patronage of King Farouk, and, in 1941, renamed themselves after him. When he was deposed in 1952, another name-change was required – this time to Zamalek, after the wealthy island district to which they had moved.

Al-Ahly are two years older. They represented the students and the rising nationalist movement, and accordingly, their name means ‘National’. In 1954, the political pendulum having swung decisively in their direction, they appointed General Nasser, the first ruler of the newly-formed Republic of Egypt, as their president.

Just to make things even more intense, Ahly then moved to Zamalek – the clubs’ grounds are on an island only about three miles square. In the days when the Royalist-Nationalist divide in Egypt was a significant issue, violence was common, the worst instance coming in 1966 when more than 300 people were killed in a riot as the army stormed the stadium.

Matters are calmer these days, but players still have a habit of storming off the pitch in a huff after decisions go against them, leading the Egyptian FA to appoint foreign referees for derbies. The experience is unforgettable.