Andalucia

THE CLUB

Address Avenida Heliopolis, 41012, Sevilla
Telephone (0034) 954 610 340
Website www.realbetisbalompie.es

Betis, whose green-and-white shirts sport the colours of Andalucía, are the team of Seville's working class, their fans coming from the poorer barrios [neighbourhoods]. Ex-Prime Minister Felipe Gonzalez famously supported Betis but some say that he felt, as a Socialist, that he had to identify himself with them.

There is an earthiness, self-deprecation and humility about Betis which they see as missing from their "snooty" neighbours. Their battle cry, woven into countless scarves, is "Viva er Beti, manque pierda". Instead of reading "Viva el Betis, aunque pierda" as would be correct, it's written in strong local dialect and means "Long live Betis, even when they lose" - an unusual sentiment in Spain.

When Sevilla went down, attendances dropped; Betis, though, continued to command impressive gates in the Second Division.

And yet humility hardly describes the man who looms largest over Betis - multi-millionaire president Manuel Ruiz de Lopera. This is the man who one player described as "a Mafioso dictator", the man who glories in his devotion to the Virgin of the Macarena, who made his fortune renting second-hand televisions, who has sacked players for "not trying", and who winds up Sevilla at every opportunity. And who spent a then world-record, far from humble £22m on Denilson. Naturally, Sevillistas derided that signing as the desperate, crass act of a rich man with no class.

On the pitch, Betis do have class; Sevilla are hard as nails, hugely effective. Those styles mean that even if derbies are low on talent, they're always high on drama, tension and edge.

THE STADIUM

The 55,000-capacity Manuel Ruiz de Lopera hardly fits Betis's working-class identity. A 25-minute walk west from the city centre, along the grand Paseo de las Delicias and the Avenida Heliopolis, it nestles amongst posh houses. Three-quarters of it is modern, steep and imposing; the odd stand out - a tiny, separate bank behind the goal - is the earthiest, where Ultras gather for chants, banners, fireworks and, when bored, seat-burning fires.

THE CITY: SEVILLE

Seville is the first city of Andalucia, of which Byron once said: "Seville is a pleasant city, famous for oranges and women." That wouldn't do justice to modern-day Seville, however. This city isn't for the faint-hearted, of mind or body: it's Spain's bullfighting hotbed and the birthplace of flamenco, while in summer temperatures soar off the chart.

Perhaps as a result, it's a famously nocturnal city, brimming with dancing and drinking until daybreak. Seville has several culinary specialities. Tapas, though eaten throughout Spain, is a Sevillian favourite, and locals keep cool swigging Tinto de Verano (the Andalucian Pimm's - lemonade and wine with plenty of ice) while sitting with friends in the squares. You won't be short of things to do in Seville, even without mentioning the Macarena.

Arrival
From the airport you can take the bus (operated by Amarillos) which leaves hourly. The bus costs 2,50 euros, or you could catch a cab for 15 euros.

Tourist Office
Avda. de la Constitucion 21, (0034) 954 221 404. See www.turismosevilla.org for more details.

Where to stay
££ Hostal Aguilas, c/Aguilas 15, (0034) 954 213 177
££ Pension Alcazar, c/Dean Miranda 12, (0034) 954 228 457
£££ Hostal Cordoba, c/Farnesio 12, (0034) 954 227 498
££££ Hotel Simon, c/Garcia de Vinuesa 19, (0034) 954 226 660

Where to eat
£ Café-Bar Veracruz, Paseo de Cristobal Colon s/n. No-frills caff with a bargain menu.
££ Bar Modesto, c/Cano y Cueto. Great tapas served here, in a town that specialises in it.
£££ La Albahaca, Plaza Santa Cruz 29. Classy joint with outdoor tables in the city's finest Plaza.

Don't miss
If you're in Seville between July and September, visit the open-air Cines de Verano and take in a film with a beer and tapas.

Something for the lady?
Seville is the home of flamenco, and while many of the flamenco bars are tacky and overpriced, some are worth visiting. Los Gallos, on the Plaza Santa Cruz, is definitely amongst the best if you can stretch to the ?27 entry (which does include a free drink). Seewww.tablaolosgallos.com for more.

Something for the bloodthirsty?
Bullfighting isn't for the faint-hearted - people and animals can die messily in front of you - but if you fancy a bit, call the Plaza de Toros (954 228 457) on the day from 4.30pm for a ticket.

Fiesta!
The famously exhilarating Semana Santa, held during the week before Easter - a marching procession with flamenco dancing and drinking in equal measure. The party continues just two weeks later with the week-long Feria de Abril.