Andalucia
THE CLUB
Address Avenida Eduardo Dato, 41005
Telephone (0034) 954 535 353
Website www.sevillafc.es
"There's no derby like Betis-Sevilla, not in Spain. Barça-Madrid is a joke in comparison. That's not a derby; THIS is a derby." So says Betis striker Dani. And, for once, all Sevillistas agree. So, too, do the media, invariably describing the Seville derby as the most passionate in Spain, a rivalry with real edge.
When Sporting Gijon travelled to Betis in 1996-97, the home fans roared on the visitors because they wanted struggling Sevilla to go down. But Sevilla got revenge three years later, sending Betis down by losing 3-2 to Real Oviedo, having taken off Norwegian goalkeeper Frode Olsen because he was attempting to make saves.
Seville is a city divided by football, obsessive about its teams; no one remains indifferent. And yet in recent years, there have been tickets available, helped by the occasional fan/police clash and the derby invariably being shown on Spanish television late on Saturday or Sunday night.
Which handily makes a trip for the derby - the must-see game in Seville - far easier and cheaper (especially at Betis) than you'd expect.
The city's football divide is, broadly speaking, a reflection of social class. In their pristine white, Sevilla are the establishment. Get a ticket in the main stand and you'll find yourself surrounded by fat, cigar-smoking men with slicked back hair and Ralph Lauren shirts. But with European football becoming a habit at the Sanchez Pizjuan, it's a sacrifice worth making.
THE STADIUM
Twenty minutes' walk down the Avenida Eduardo Dato, which runs straight out from the city centre, the Sanchez Pizjuan is a proper Spanish football stadium: a 45,000-capacity bowl adorned with a wonderful tiled mosaic, no roof (except over the posh seats), close to the pitch and plain white, it creates real atmosphere, led by the members of the Biris supporters behind the south goal - the place to sit. Tickets are more expensive than Betis.
THE CITY
Seville is the first city of Andalucia, of which Byron once said: "Seville is a pleasant city, famous for oranges and women." That wouldn't do justice to modern-day Seville, however. This city isn't for the faint-hearted, of mind or body: it's Spain's bullfighting hotbed and the birthplace of flamenco, while in summer temperatures soar off the chart.
Perhaps as a result, it's a famously nocturnal city, brimming with dancing and drinking until daybreak. Seville has several culinary specialities. Tapas, though eaten throughout Spain, is a Sevillian favourite, and locals keep cool swigging Tinto de Verano (the Andalucian Pimm's - lemonade and wine with plenty of ice) while sitting with friends in the squares. You won't be short of things to do in Seville, even without mentioning the Macarena.
Arrival
From the airport you can take the bus (operated by Amarillos) which leaves hourly. The bus costs 2,50 euros, or you could catch a cab for 15 euros.
Tourist Office
Avda. de la Constitucion 21, (0034) 954 221 404. See www.turismosevilla.org for more details.
Where to stay
££ Hostal Aguilas, c/Aguilas 15, (0034) 954 213 177
££ Pension Alcazar, c/Dean Miranda 12, (0034) 954 228 457
£££ Hostal Cordoba, c/Farnesio 12, (0034) 954 227 498
££££ Hotel Simon, c/Garcia de Vinuesa 19, (0034) 954 226 660
Where to eat
£ Café-Bar Veracruz, Paseo de Cristobal Colon s/n. No-frills caff with a bargain menu.
££ Bar Modesto, c/Cano y Cueto. Great tapas served here, in a town that specialises in it.
£££ La Albahaca, Plaza Santa Cruz 29. Classy joint with outdoor tables in the city's finest Plaza.
Don't miss
If you're in Seville between July and September, visit the open-air Cines de Verano and take in a film with a beer and tapas.
Something for the lady?
Seville is the home of flamenco, and while many of the flamenco bars are tacky and overpriced, some are worth visiting. Los Gallos, on the Plaza Santa Cruz, is definitely amongst the best if you can stretch to the ?27 entry (which does include a free drink). See www.tablaolosgallos.com for more.
Something for the bloodthirsty?
Bullfighting isn't for the faint-hearted - people and animals can die messily in front of you - but if you fancy a bit, call the Plaza de Toros (954 228 457) on the day from 4.30pm for a ticket.
Fiesta!
The famously exhilarating Semana Santa, held during the week before Easter - a marching procession with flamenco dancing and drinking in equal measure. The party continues just two weeks later with the week-long Feria de Abril.