Andalucia

THE CLUB

Address Plaza Houston, s/n 21003
Telephone (0034) 959 270 208
Website www.recreativohuelva.com

Prompted by British workers on the railway line between Huelva and the Rio Tinto copper mines in 1889, Recreativo de Huelva are Spain's oldest football club. And yet much of their long history has gone by virtually unnoticed, much like the city itself, the least remarkable of Andalucia's provincial capitals, away from Spain, out towards Portugal and almost entirely forgotten by everyone else.

Recreativo might be universally respected for their age, but they're just as universally ignored, lacking a natural rival, with the rest of Andalucia snarling in other directions, having won nothing and enjoying just two stints in the Primera - even if the first was, with wonderful timing, during their centenary year. Alas, no sooner had Recre come up than they were down again, experiencing a single season at the top. 

Their most recent appearance in the top flight was in 2001-2002, under Lucas Alcaraz. Refusing to mortgage themselves up to the eyeballs for a future in Primera, they went straight back down again - the victims of an atrocious start to the season from which they could never recover. But it wasn't just that.

The locals also claimed the club was the victim of a bizarre curse because Recre just could not score at the north end of their ground. Adding weight to their theory, in the official photo of the ground the north goal was missing. Spooky. Curse or no curse, Recre's stability has stood them in good stead and, with the First Division experience having rekindled flagging interest, they're currently homing in on promotion back to Primera.

THE STADIUM

Recreativo moved from their crumbling Colombino stadium to the imaginatively-named New Colombino in 2001. A smart out-of-town 20,000 stadium that has since hosted the Spanish national team, the Colombino rarely fills, but is worth visiting for the museum, celebrating the birthplace of Spanish football. You'll also find garlic, photos of the Virgin Mary and scattered candles to overcome the curse of the north goal.

THE TOWN

Though Huelva is one of the less appealing parts of Andalucia, it's not without certain charms - particularly if you like marshes and mosquitoes. There's always the Coto de Donana National Park, home to a number of rare birds of prey and mongoose.

Car rental
Avis, (0034) 954 537 861, Santa Justa train station.

Where to stay
You don't want to stay in Huelva. Honestly. Go to Seville and just pop down for the day. But if you're desperate...
££ Cafeteria Pension Rabida, c/Rabida 9, (0034) 959 350 163.
££££ Hostel Pedro Alonso Nino, c/Pedro Alonso Nino 13, (0034) 959 372 392.

Where to eat
£ Meson El Lobito, c/La Rabida 31. Fish and meat.
££ Bar Goya and El Tapeo, c/Prim. Decent tapas.

Don't miss...
Should you fancy a drink, they're almost giving wine away at Meson El Lobito (c/La Rabida 31). Handy, with little else to see round these parts.

Something for the lady?
Step back in time and take the Columbus Trail - (0034) 959 256 900 - a guided tour of a number of places relevant to the life and adventures of Christopher Columbus.

Fiesta!
Romeria del Rocio (May) - a time of processions featuring a number of horse-drawn carriages. Yes, really.