Andalucia

THE CLUB

Address Plaza de Madrid, s/n 11010 Cadiz
Telephone (0034) 956 261 652
Website www.cadizcf.com

Cadiz is one of the poorest and yet warmest, most welcoming places in Spain. Crammed into a peninsula, walled most of the way round and jutting into the Atlantic, it has a feel of colonial Spanish America about it. The club, who have struggled in their first season in Primera after a spell in the second rung, reflects that personality. Rescued by a consortium led by ex-Liverpool striker Michael Robinson - "simply because I love the place, the fans, that special feeling," he says - Cadiz are a real community team, loveably crumbling but very definitely on the up and excited about it.

Lauded by neutrals and the media, their self-consciously funny, self-deprecating fans, decked in brilliant yellow, are famous for their love of life, exuberance and humour. And for their sing-song accent and local slang. Their Ramon Carranza stadium might not be the most exciting or the biggest place to watch football, but it is certainly one of the most fun.

The atmosphere changes, though, when they face Jerez - a passionate and occasionally violent local grudge match.

Cadiz's favourite players have embodied that eccentric, open outlook on life, becoming utterly identified with their club: Kiko, an artist who ended up at Atletico, and Cadiz's undisputed idol, the wayward San Salvadorian night-loving genius Jorge Alberto 'Mágico' Gonzalez.

The man who, well into the small hours, consistently led his exasperated managers a merry dance round the city; the man who once overslept and missed the first half of the game against Barcelona, turning up at half-time with his side losing 1-0 to score two and provide two more. Mágico, indeed.

THE STADIUM

Cadiz's fans are proud of their little Ramon Carranza stadium, still standing - if rather the worse for wear and currently undergoing renovations - after 50 years and considered, along with its fans, the soul of the club; a place with a special atmosphere. On the Avenida Jose Leon de Carranza, it's reached by bus (line 1) or easily walkable from the city centre, going away from the Castillo de San Sebastian.

THE TOWN

One of Spain's first settlements, Cadiz is an attractive port town on the Costa de la Luz, served by two good beaches - Playa de la Victoria and Playa de la Caleta.

Arrival
Fly from Stansted to Jerez Airport (with Ryanair).

Tourist Office 
Avda. Ramon de Carranza s/n, (0034) 956 258 646.

Where to stay
£ Pension La Argentina, c/Conde O'Reilly, (0034) 956 223 310
££££ Hotel Regio II, Avda. Andalucia 79, (0034) 956 253 008
££££££ Hotel Atlantico, Parque Genoves 9, (0034) 956 226 905

Where to eat
£ Freiduria Europa, c/Hospital de mujeres 21. Excellent fried fish.
££ El Faro, c/San Felix 15. More costly fish.
£££ Restaurante Achuri, c/Plocia 15, (0034) 956 253 613. Fantastic Andaluz food. 

Don't miss
If sherry's your poison, visit a bodega in El Puerto de Santa Maria for a tour and tastings.

Something for the lady?
You could always treat her to an open-top bus tour of the town, you old romantic.

Fiesta!
The Vendimia sherry celebration in nearby Jerez (September) is worth a visit.