Barcelona

Catalunya, of which Barcelona is the capital, is not Spain but a separate, distinct country. So say the Catalans – and with good reason. It has its own language, its own customs, a thriving historic capital and a hard-working mentality far removed from the 'mañana, mañana' procrastinations often associated with Spain.

Shaped roughly like a triangle, Catalunya is a diverse region of (often avant-garde) urbanisation, mountains, beaches and farmland, proud of its political and artistic heritage, and its modernism. Bounded by the Pyrenees to the north, the Mediterranean to the east, and the River Ebro, running diagonally between them, it consists of four provinces: Girona in the north, Lleida in the west, Tarragona in the south and Barcelona in the north.

Tourists flock to the area, some to the countryside, others to beach resorts like Lloret de Mar, and Blanes. Still more travel to the vibrant city of Barcelona where the medieval Gothic cathedrals, Gaudi's magnificent modernist structures and the beachside Olympic and Forum 2004 developments stun the eye. Catalunya's biggest tourist attraction, however, is the FC Barcelona museum at the Nou Camp stadium.

Unlike much of mainland Iberia, Catalunya was not colonised by the Moors. Before the unification of Spain, Barcelona was the capital of an empire which stretched to Athens. Its subsequent decline, and the political dominance of the peninsular by Madrid, is keenly felt by the people in the region.

POLITICAL FOOTBALL
Fluttering everywhere in the region are yellow-and-red striped flags – the symbol of Catalunya. Catalanisme is a widespread movement to promote Catalan independence – and bustling himself to its forefront is Joan Laporta, longterm president of FC Barcelona who now fancies a move into politics.

Laporta's old club is, and always has been, a major symbol of Catalan nationalism, supported by most of the football fans in the region: one survey suggested that 65 percent of the population follow Barça. Real Madrid are supported by 18 percent – mainly migrants relocated to the area during the Franco era – and only three percent are up for Espanyol, Barcelona's other Primera team, whose hard-core fans, Las Brigadas Blanquiazules, hate FC Barcelona and Catalanisme, welcome Madrid, and carry Spanish flags to the game, some bearing the (illegal) black eagle of Franco.

For the vast majority for whom football means Barça, there is no occasion when the hatred of their political, economic and historical bondage to the 'oppressive' capital of Madrid bursts out more than when Real Madrid come to play in the awesome Nou Camp.

To these fans, Madrid are the team of General Franco, who – keen to unify the country he dictated from 1939 to his death in 1975 – sought to destroy Catalanisme, to eradicate the language and customs of the region, forcing into exile those opponents he didn't execute or throw into prison.

Since El Generalisimo's death, Catalan culture has flourished, and the previously illegal Reapers' Song, a ballad celebrating the Catalan peasants' revolt against billeted Spanish troops in 1640, has become the official national anthem. The song, which Laporta once played before the clasico against Madrid, describes what the Catalan rebels should do to the Madrid-financed invading soldiers:

'Drive them off, these people,
So conceited and arrogant,
A good blow of the sickle,
Defenders of the land,
A good blow of the sickle.'

TALK TALK
As ever, when in a foreign country, make an attempt to ingratiate yourself with the locals by learning the lingo. However, don't make the mistake of speaking (Castilian) Spanish. Catalan, used in all state schools and the mother-tongue of 60 percent of the population, is akin to the French dialect Provençal. 'Please' is 'si's plau'; 'thank you' is 'merci'.

FUNNY FOLK
Though it's ridiculed by the rest of the country, the Catalans are fond of the Sardana (folk dancing), which consists of groups of people forming circles and placing objects within them, thereby demonstrating unity and sharing. It's a tame affair, so both young and old can participate together.

BARCELONA: THE CITY
A vast metropolis with a population of over three million, Barcelona is the capital of Catalunya and a city that has it all. It is a city that excels in everything: industry, fashion, art, music, design and sport – most notably football. With so much to do it's impossible to exhaust your options in a single holiday, so you'll just have to go back for more. The prosperous commercial centre is decorated with gothic architecture, mixed with more modern (arte nouveau) creations.

This sums up Barcelona, a wonderful blend of the old and new. Despite the money invested in the city there are some run-down areas to be avoided. Petty crime is rife – especially if you look like a dozy tourist – and Barcelona does have drug problems. That said, Barcelona poses no greater danger than any other major European city, and you shouldn't feel afraid to explore.

The hub of the city is the Ramblas, an ancient road that forms the spine of the city. Lorca once remarked that Ramblas was "the only street in the world which I wish would never end". For a sense of ancient Barcelona saunter to the east end of Ramblas to the Barri Gotíc (the Gothic quarter). Here you'll find yourself surrounded by buildings from the 14th and 15th centuries. Barcelona's wealth of riches leaves other major European cities desperately keeping up with the Jones'.

CITY GUIDE: ARRIVAL
The main airport is 12km south-west of Barcelona at El Prat de Llobragat and is linked to the city by train and a handy Aerobus (departing every 12 minutes). Some budget flights arrive at either Girona or Reus, from where the trip to the city takes a little longer.

TOURIST OFFICE
Placa de Catalunya, (0034) 906 301 282, www.barcelonaturisme.com.

GETTING AROUND
Getting about is easy thanks to a first-class public transport that includes a metro, trams, buses and even cable cars. Just pick up a free transport map from the tourist office and away you go.

GOING OUT
If your hotel is in the city centre the nearest clubbing zones are Barri Gotic, Raval, Eixample and Gracia. However, should you venture into the city's outskirts it's here that you'll find the designer, big-name venues.  Poble Nou for example offers little during the day but transforms into a trendy nightspot.
Café Royale, c/Nou de Zurbano 3. Pretty people lounging about.  Prepare to feel inadequate.
Otto Zultz, c/de Lincoln. More of the beautiful set dancing wildly.
The Loft, c/Pamplona 88. Two floors, international DJs.
Carpe Diem, Avgda. Dr Gregorio Maranon 17. Huge tent, best in summer.

DON'T MISS
The Museu de Barça. Built in 1957, and enlarged 25 years later for the World Cup semi-final, the Camp Nou is a world-class stadium – and as you'd expect its museum is a shrine to great Barcelona teams and players through the years. To say it's not entirely impartial is one enormous understatement, but it is a must for any football fan. Tickets are 7 euros (11 euros with a tour of the stadium) and opening hours are Monday-Saturday 10am-6.30pm and Sundays 10am-2pm.

SOMETHING A LITTLE DIFFERENT
Why not ride the cross-harbour cable car from Barceloneta (the 1992 Olympic village) to Montjuic for a dazzling view of the city? The cable car departs every 15 minutes, tickets cost 6 euros one way and 7.20 euros return.

DAY TRIPPER
If you're in the area, it's well worth taking a train 75km north-east of Barcelona to Girona. Having survived 21 invasions by the 18th century, and been besieged five times in the 19th century, this medieval city has earned its nickname 'Immortal'. Today it is stormed by nothing more fearsome than armies of tourists strolling through its cobbled streets. Be sure to visit the markets in the old town for a break from the beach. The tourist office is at the train station in Placa d'Espanya (0034 972 226 575).

FIESTA!
New Year's Eve – Cap d'Any – sparks wild street celebrations. As the clock counts down to midnight, you eat 12 grapes in 12 seconds, each representing good fortune for a month of the year ahead. Top tip: go for seedless.

Explore the area with the interactive map below. Click club badge for a club guide.

For regular updates on the crazy world of Spanish football, see our blog La Liga Loca
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