This story originally featured in issue 364 of FourFourTwo magazine. Get a mag subscription today.
‘Como! Thou, a treasure whom the earth keeps to herself’ – English poet William Wordsworth fell in love with northern Italy’s sun-kissed lakes during a walking tour in 1790.
He wouldn’t be the last. In the centuries since, countless more have eloped to this city for sunshine and exquisite cuisine; romantic getaways and honeymoons.
It is, therefore, with some disappointment, that FourFourTwo splashes on to the tarmac at Milan airport to discover the entire Lombardy region is in the eye of a biblical storm that will last the next four days. “It’s not normally like this,” laughs FFT’s chauffeur for the day, Davide, clutching an umbrella. “One or two days of rain, sure, but this is crazy.”
We’re thankful, at least, as we wind through the sodden farmland that separates Milan from Como, that we’re not here for romance, but a football match of potentially enorme importanza: Serie B’s showdown between fourth-placed Como 1907 and second-placed Venezia. Only two teams automatically qualify for promotion to Italy’s top flight each season. Leaders Parma have a healthy lead and so, with 11 matches remaining, victory for either side could prove crucial.
We pull up at Como’s training ground as the first team and primavera squads file out of freshly-painted changing rooms and on to pristine training pitches – diggers and mounds of soil providing a curious backdrop through the drizzle. FFT is welcomed into a newly-completed canteen and handed a teeny-tiny Italian coffee. With little over 48 hours to go until Venezia’s visit, there’s a buzz around the club, but that hasn’t always been the case.
As recently as 2017, Como were declared bankrupt after being relegated to Serie C, Italy’s third tier. That summer, they were bought out by Akosua Puni Essien – the, erm, wife of the former Chelsea and Ghana midfielder Michael – yet further financial problems saw them banished to Serie D ahead of the 2017/18 season.
It was merely the latest in a series of bankruptcies, liquidations and financial misdemeanours that have plagued the club since relegation from Serie A in 2003; a sorry state of affairs for the former home of the likes of Paolo Rossi, Marco Tardelli and Gianluca Zambrotta. Fans of a certain vintage even recall Como’s participation in the golden age of Serie A in the late 1980s.
“As a child, I remember climbing the fence around the pitch to get a better view of Diego Maradona playing against us,” lifelong Como fan Marco Melillo explains to FFT. “It was like he had a glow around him. I saw Marco van Basten, Ruud Gullit and Frank Rijkaard playing for Milan. But those days became a distant memory in recent years. I even feared we would lose our club forever.”
That all changed in 2019, when Como were bought out by Indonesian conglomerate Djarum, whose empire encompasses everything from online streaming to dairy. Djarum’s idea had been to purchase a club that would allow talented Indonesian youngsters to develop in European football. But only after buying Como did they realise Italian law prohibited non-EU players from obtaining the necessary permits.
“That came as a bit of a blow to us,” says Mirwan Suwarso, a representative for the ownership group, before training gets underway. “So we went back to the drawing board and simply decided to make Como the best football club we could.”
Djarum inherited a club with no facilities, no stadium to call their own and employees that regularly went unpaid. That the team was promoted from Serie D just a few months later seems something of a miracle.
“There was a very good group of players already at the club when we took charge,” confirms Suwarso. “Some of which are still in the squad now. Our job was to build on that, while laying the off-field foundations to return this club to the top level.”
After Michael Gandler was brought in to sort out the club's administration and steady the ship, the man ultimately placed in charge of that process was Dennis Wise, who’d already been working under Suwarso in the Indonesian football academy prior to the Como purchase. The former England international was swiftly appointed as sporting director and, later acted as an advisor.
“It was about creating something from scratch,” Wise later said. “We bought back the academy, which had been outsourced, we bought a training ground and started to explore a longer lease on the stadium, which was owned by the local authorities, with plans to knock it down and redevelop it.”
Wise’s insight, coupled with considerable investment, saw Como win Serie C in only their second season back in the third tier. Fans were thrilled. “We had initially been sceptical of the Indonesians,” fan Melillo told us. “But they very quickly won us round.”
Djarum’s investment in the town and the people of Como was key to that. During the coronavirus pandemic, they funded free testing for residents. Later, they saved a local theatre from closing. Today, proceeds from kit sales go to Como-based charities. “It’s the ethos of the group,” says Suwarso. “Build the community first, be a part of that, and grow together.”
Cesc Education
If fans were already excited for a return to Serie B, imagine their ecstasy when, one year and one mid-table finish later, the club announced Cesc Fabregas would join as a player and minority shareholder. In August 2022, Thierry Henry followed his former Arsenal team-mate on to the Como board. Henry, the manager of France’s under 21 team, has promised to “stay in his lane” with regard to the general running of the club, but is also regularly sounded out for his insights.
Fabregas made 17 appearances for Como during the 2022/23 campaign before hanging his boots up at the end of the season – becoming head coach of the club’s under 19s and B teams, then taking over as interim manager of the first team in November, when boss Moreno Longo was sacked amid reported concerns about the style of play, despite the club being sixth in the table. After finishing 13th a season earlier, the ownership had made it clear that the goal would always be promotion, with Longo deemed no longer suitable by the ownership
Fabregas won three of his five games in charge but, with the required coaching badge not yet attained, the 36-year-old took a step back in December to serve as assistant manager to Osian ‘Osh’ Roberts – previously Wales number two under Chris Coleman and Ryan Giggs, then at Crystal Palace under Fabregas and Henry’s former Arsenal pal Patrick Vieira.
When training finally ends today, Como’s players trudge into the adjacent changing rooms for a well-earned shower and Fabregas joins FFT for a chinwag. “First time in Como?” he asks, before breaking into a grin. “Probably your last with this weather!”
Between mouthfuls of a rather delicious-looking peach tart, he explains what appealed about the project. “For me, it was the chance to grow into something, from player to coach,” he says. “I have a fire in my belly again. Working with a mentor like Osh is amazing and I’m learning so much. His experience is incredible.”
Fabregas played under some of the greatest managers of the modern game, from Arsene Wenger and Pep Guardiola, to Jose Mourinho and Vicente del Bosque. He reveals he wouldn’t be averse to getting in touch with any of them if needed. “I haven’t done yet, because this has all happened so fast, but absolutely I would love to,” he beams. “I have some ideas about what sort of coach I want to be, but I’m young and I have a lot to learn. I’m not shy to ask for advice from people who know more than me.”
Fabregas confirms he’s in talks with the ownership group about implementing a long-term vision at the club. “I can’t tell you it though, it’s top secret!” he laughs. “But, no, it’s all about creating a winning culture and we’ll do that by instilling the discipline and mentality it takes to reach the top level. I want us to be a family. We spend more waking hours here than we do at home, so it’s crucial that we’re close to each other.”
After a mid-table finish in 2022/23, this season’s objective was never to go up, but Como’s excellent form has made Sunday’s Venezia clash a promotion six-pointer. Fabregas isn’t fazed. “I have pressure to be the best husband, the best father and the best coach I can be – that’s my pressure,” he explains. “It’s more important to me to help the players perform at their best. It’s a massive game, of course, but we need to focus on our preparation and not worry about pressure.”
After Fabregas shuffles off, FFT is joined by a few of his players. Their enthusiasm for working under one of greatest midfielders of his generation is palpable. “The first time I saw Cesc at training, I thought ‘Wow! This isn’t a PlayStation game, this is real life’,” laughs Alessandro Gabrielloni, one of the few to have risen with the club from Serie D to Serie B. “He might have been towards the end of his career but you could see his quality. To have him as a coach now is a huge honour.”
No footballer has been confronted with this club’s transformation more starkly than Alesso Iovine. The Como local was forced to leave the academy following 2003's Serie A relegation, but returned in 2022 under the new owners. “I was there for the darkest period and I saw what it did to the fans,” he recalls. “The facilities and the atmosphere around the place now are a world apart. It’s hugely exciting.” Our chat with the midfielder is curtailed by news that his partner is going to give birth any minute. How rude…
Como’s chances of beating Venezia this weekend have been given a huge boost by the return to fitness of Patrick Cutrone. The former Milan and Wolves striker has been capped for Italy, and is widely considered one of the most technically gifted players in Serie B. He’d scored four in five leading up to his injury, and was crushed to be sidelined. “I’m desperate to make a difference for my team-mates,” the 26-year-old explains. “Purely in terms of ambition, you can compare this club with the others I’ve played for. They’ve given us the tools we need to succeed and it’s important for us to repay that.”
The Perfect Setting
The following lunchtime, we set off for the Stadio Giuseppe Sinigaglia for an open training session on the eve of the match. The ground, which was built in 1927 at the behest of Benito Mussolini and named in honour of a local war hero, overhangs Lake Como and can be accessed by walking along the mosaic-tiled promenade.
It has to be one of the most beautiful approaches to any stadium in world football, even in a downpour. On FFT’s left is gently-lapping blue water, enveloped by fishing boats and the snow-capped Alps; on our right, neoclassical villas and decorative gardens, replete with sculptures of Juno and Mars.
There’s a buzz in the air as the open-air stadium swings into view, and it’s not only the supporters making their way through the turnstiles. On the lake, seaplanes take off from the water. Not many football grounds can count an aircraft hangar as a next door neighbour. FFT could watch them soar into the gathering storm clouds all afternoon but, thankfully, another feast for the eyes awaits us within.
Disinterested locals could be forgiven for thinking the game had been moved forward a day, with stands sagging under the weight of raucous fans clutching banners and flags. Evidently, the weather hasn’t dampened spirits. The players emerge to wild applause as Fabregas and Roberts put them through their paces. “Tomorrow’s game is important, so the least we can do is show our support,” fan Andrea shouts to FFT above the noise. “We’re grateful to have a club we can support, after everything that has happened. Forza Como!”
Post-session, as the players sign shirts and pose for pictures, we catch up with manager Roberts, who confirms this is nothing unusual. “You can see what this club means to the people,” he says. “Tomorrow will be a huge game for the city. We’re playing good football at the moment and we’re confident we can get a win.”
Roberts will become head of development once Fabregas takes over the managerial reins, and it’s a role he’s looking forward to. “The opportunity to help build a club essentially from the ground up is one I couldn’t say no to,” he adds. “It will be my job to help bring through the next generation of talent. For now, though, my role is to share my experience with Cesc and help him on his own journey. He’s got a deep understanding of the game and he wants to learn as much as possible.”
After the fans file out, FFT heads to the nearby village of Bellagio, which inspired the theme of a famous hotel in Las Vegas, and is known for its cobbled streets, gelaterias and views across Lake Como. Over lunch, we chat to Como’s head of analytics Chris Galley, previously of Brentford, and Ryan Shelton, head of commercial.
Galley reveals that there aren’t many Serie B outfits who take analytics as seriously as Como. “My role is ensuring that data plays a key part in decision making,” he explains. “I’m in regular contact with Cesc and Osh, and try to provide them with the data they need to make the best decisions. We want to get ahead of the competition in any tiny way we can.”
Shelton tells us about general plans to expand the stadium. Como’s current capacity is around 7,500 – 5,000 short of Serie A requirements. That would mean a short-term fix in the event of promotion but the idea, ultimately, is to rebuild the entire thing.
Later, back in Como, we’re forced to take refuge from the rain in the Basilica di San Giorgio, a 12th-century Roman Catholic church, and enter to discover that 6pm mass is underway.
Among the congregation, an elderly couple are sporting familiar blue and white Como scarves. On the eve of the biggest game of the season, it doesn’t take a great deal of imagination to guess what they’ll be praying for.
Fighting Spirit
FFT isn’t set in its ways when it comes to pre-match rituals, but eating pizza with a UFC star is a new one. Como vs Venezia is just hours away when we meet Stephen ‘Wonderboy’ Thompson for a margherita. The American welterweight is attending his very first “soccer” match, after spending the weekend creating content with Como’s players for an Indonesian sports streaming service. It’s a reminder of the scale of Djarum’s enterprise.
After lunch, we head to a ultras pub located in the shadow of Stadio Giuseppe Sinigaglia to meet Patsy McVey, a Scottish expat, her teenage daughter Aurora and their friends from the Curva. Around us, hundreds of fans huddle under parasols, sinking pints out of plastic cups. Despite the weather, the vibe is electric.
“It never used to be like this before matches,” says Patsy, in a thick Glaswegian accent. “With all the financial difficulties, the stands were almost empty for games when I started coming around 10 years ago. Now, we're sold out for every home game.”
Aurora, born and raised in Como and a diehard since the age of seven, has never felt more connected to her club. “The unity between the team, the owners and the people of Como has grown and grown,” she beams. “I’m so proud of this club. I go to away games as well and we’re seeing more come with us all the time. Playing in Serie A would only help with that.”
Our conversation is curtailed by ultras group Curva Como 1907 noisily gathering at the end of the street for an organised march into the ground. Fronted by an enormous banner bearing the group’s crest, the black-clad contingent storm towards the stadium beneath blue flares and great plumes of smoke. We join those around us by sinking our pint and following the procession inside.
If the stadium was loud for yesterday’s training session, it's cacophonous now; the Curva a swirling sea of blue and white. Colossal flags swing from the melee, while choreo leaders bark instructions through megaphones.
Amid the chaos, FFT spots legendary defender Zambrotta, who made his name at Como before career-defining stints at Juventus, Barcelona and Milan. “The stadium is more or less the same as when I used to play here,” he tells us. “There is always a great atmosphere, the support of the Como people is always there. I hope to see this club in Serie A soon.”
After Zambrotta takes his seat, FFT joins Patsy, Aurora in the Curva for the match. From up in the gods, we can see across Lake Como to the hills beyond – it’s truly a breathtaking place to watch football.
Once the whistle goes, it soon becomes apparent why Venezia are second in the table. They knock the ball around fluidly, drawing Como’s players in before switching play intelligently. Despite their possession, Como fashion the better chances. Our old friend Gabrielloni, who has risen with the club from Serie D, rounds the goalkeeper midway through the first half only to run the ball out of play before he can shoot.
They don’t squander their next chance. After a neat one-two, French winger Lucas Da Cunha cuts a cross back to the edge of the area, where playmaker Simone Verdi rifles an effort beyond Venezia’s goalkeeper to send the home fans into raptures – 1-0 after 38 minutes.
The lead doesn’t last. Two minutes later, the ball is whipped across Como’s box and Finnish striker Joel Pohjanpalo nods it inside the far post. Roberts and Fabregas make their dissatisfaction known as the teams soon head inside for the break.
Early in the second half, Como bring on new-father Iovine at right-back, followed by the talismanic Cutrone, fresh back from injury. The latter gets a huge ovation. Yet Venezia dominate, hitting the bar twice in quick succession. Como are on the ropes.
With less than 10 minutes to go, Venezia create their biggest chance of the half, Marco Olivieri firing his effort straight at Como’s Austrian goalkeeper Adrian Semper from the six-yard line. It’s an astonishing piece of goalkeeping. Next to us on the Curva, Aurora is barely able to watch.
As the clock ticks beyond 90 minutes, it appears Como have held on. A point isn’t what these fans wanted but, on reflection, it’s more than fair. But there’s still time for one last chance.
Right-back Iovine collects the ball with space out wide and, in what can only be described as the second-best delivery by a member of his family this weekend, sends it arcing towards the far post, prompting the entire stadium to hold its breath. As the ball descends, Cutrone lets it fall across his body before unleashing a thunderous volley into the roof of Venezia’s net.
An eruption breaks out as players, substitutes and coaches storm the pitch in ecstasy. Venezia slump to the turf as fireworks whizz across the lake and explode in the night sky. When the referee blows the final whistle several fuzzy minutes later, the scoreboard reads Como 2 Venezia 1 – the hosts climbing to third in the table, above the defeated visitors.
Post-game, it’s a long time before Como’s players can be separated from the Curva. FFT manages to catch a quick word with Cutrone amid the celebrations. “I’ve scored goals before, but not many as special as that one,” he says. “This club deserves to be in Serie A. The fans were incredible tonight.”
As the stands slowly begin to empty around us, we head to a local bar to share in the euphoria until the wee hours. There are songs, chants, even an invitation to join a pair of fans on the drive to Cremonese, for the next six-pointer, the following weekend. We’d love to stay, we assure them, but frankly we’re sick of the weather.
The following morning, feeling a little worse for wear at the airport, FFT gets a call from Aurora. “Did you enjoy yourself?” she asks. “I’ve never heard celebrations like that. We’re one step closer to Serie A. I hope we can do it. This is such a special club.”
It’s hard to disagree with that statement as FFT’s plane departs Milan, ascending high over Lombardy and above the clouds. For the first time in four days, we get a glimpse of blinding sunshine, and feel we might know what Wordsworth was getting at.
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